---
title: "Amana Fridge Ice Maker Not Working"
canonical: "https://gadgetguides.org/amana-fridge-ice-maker-not-working/"
author: "Arian"
published: "2026-09-11T07:31:47+00:00"
modified: "2026-09-11T07:31:47+00:00"
language: "en-US"
site: "Gadget Guides"
description: "Your Amana fridge ice maker not working is one of those small frustrations that builds up fast. You open the freezer for a drink, and the bin is empty or…"
categories: "Troubleshooting"
attribution: "Gadget Guides (https://gadgetguides.org/)"
---

# Amana Fridge Ice Maker Not Working

Your Amana fridge ice maker not working is one of those small frustrations that builds up fast. You open the freezer for a drink, and the bin is empty or half full of sad, clumpy cubes. The good news is that most of the time, the fix is simple and costs under $50.

 

The ice maker in your Amana is actually a Whirlpool-made module shared across dozens of brands. Manufacturer specifications indicate that about 80% of "no ice" complaints come from just three causes: a blocked feeler arm, a frozen water line, or a failed module test cycle. We will walk through each symptom so you can diagnose yours in about 15 minutes.

 

![Amana Fridge Ice Maker Not Working](https://gadgetguides.org/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/amana-fridge-ice-maker-not-working-mtwn128w.webp)

 

Image source: Bing (Web (fair-use with source credit))

 

## Quick Answer

 

Check the ice maker switch first. Make sure it is ON. Verify the freezer is at 0°F or below.

 

Run the self-test by holding the test button for 3 seconds. If it cycles, the module is good. If nothing happens, replace the ice maker module.

 

If it fills but no ice forms, check the water filter and valve.

 

## How the Ice Maker Works: The Parts That Usually Fail

 

Your Amana ice maker is a self-contained module that bolts into the freezer wall. It contains a water fill tube, a mold with a heating element, ejector fingers, and a feeler arm. That arm tells the machine when the bin is full.

 

Here is the part lineup and what each one does:

 

- **Feeler arm**, A metal wire that swings down. When ice piles up and pushes it up, the cycle stops. If it gets stuck in the up position, you get zero ice.
- **Ice mold and heater**, Water freezes in the mold. A small heater warms the mold just enough to release the cubes. If the heater fails, the cubes never pop out.
- **Ejector motor**, Turns the plastic fingers that push the cubes into the bin. A bad motor means no harvest cycle.
- **Water inlet valve**, Opens for about 7 seconds each cycle to fill the mold. It needs good water pressure between 20 and 120 psi. It also needs a signal from the control board.
- **Control module**, The brain. It times the cycles, runs the self-test, and communicates with the fridge main board.

 

The beauty of this system is that the module is replaceable as a single unit. You do not need to solder or diagnose individual components. If the self-test fails, you swap the whole module for about $40 to $60.

 

## Symptom 1: No Ice at All — Test the Module, Water Valve, and Feeler Arm

 

If you have an empty bin and no ice anywhere, start with the quickest checks. Do not order parts until you confirm the cause.

 

**Step 1: Check the feeler arm.** Open the freezer and look at the metal wire arm on the side of the ice maker. It should hang down freely. If it is lifted up or stuck, gently push it down.

 

Sometimes a stray cube or frost buildup jams it. If it moves freely and the ice maker still does nothing, move on.

 

**Step 2: Run the self-test.** Locate the test button. On most Amana modules, it is on the right side of the housing or under a small plastic cover. Press and hold it for 3 to 5 seconds.

 

You should see the ice maker cycle through a harvest. If it runs, the module is likely fine. If nothing happens, the module is your prime suspect.

 

**Step 3: Check the water inlet valve.** If the module cycles but no water enters the mold, the valve might be bad or the water supply might be off. Pull the fridge out and find the valve on the back near the bottom. Listen for a faint hum when the ice maker calls for water.

 

No hum means the valve coil is dead. Hum but no flow means the valve is clogged or the water line is kinked.

 

![Amana water inlet valve](https://gadgetguides.org/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/amana-water-inlet-valve-mtwn17an.webp)

 

Image source: Web (Bing) / ebay.com (Web image (fair-use with source credit))

 

**Step 4: Verify the water line is not frozen.** This happens more than you would think. If your freezer is set very cold or the line runs through a cold spot, the water can freeze before it reaches the mold. Disconnect the line at the back of the fridge and check for ice.

 

A hair dryer on low heat can thaw it. Then figure out why it froze so it does not happen again.

 

## Symptom 2: Slow, Small, or Clumpy Ice — Check Temperature, Filter, and Water Line

 

This symptom is different. You are getting ice, but it is not working right. The cubes are tiny, hollow, or stuck together.

 

That points to water flow or temperature issues, not a dead module.

 

**Check the freezer temperature first.** The ice maker needs the freezer at 0°F or below. Many fridge panels read warmer than the actual temperature. Drop a standalone thermometer in the freezer for a few hours.

 

If it reads above 5°F, your ice production will be very slow. Adjust the freezer setting and wait 24 hours.

 

**Replace the water filter.** Amana and Whirlpool recommend changing the filter every 6 months. A clogged filter reduces water pressure enough that the ice maker gets a weak fill. The result is small or hollow cubes.

 

If your filter is older than 6 months, swap it. That is the cheapest fix on this list, usually $10 to $20.

 

**Check for clumpy cubes.** If the cubes are normal size but freeze together into a solid block, the freezer is cycling warm during the defrost cycle. That is normal, but if the defrost heater runs too long, the top of the ice melts and refreezes as one big chunk. This is more common in humid climates.

 

Use the ice faster or adjust the defrost timer. For most people it is just a seasonal annoyance.

 

## How to Run the Amana Ice Maker Self-Test (and What Each Result Means)

 

The self-test is your best diagnostic tool. It bypasses the normal cycle timing and forces the ice maker through a harvest and fill cycle. You can learn more about this test on the official [Amana support site](https://www.amana.com/owners/use-and-care-guides.html) by entering your model number.

 

**Finding the button.** Look on the side of the ice maker module. On most Amana models, it is a small black or white button. You might need to remove the ice bin to see it.

 

Some models hide it under a plastic cover that snaps off.

 

**Running the test.** Press and hold the test button for 3 to 5 seconds. On some modules, you press it once, then press again within 5 seconds. The ice maker should start turning and the mold should heat up.

 

The whole cycle takes about 5 minutes.

 

![Amana ice maker self-test button](https://gadgetguides.org/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/amana-ice-maker-self-test-button-mtwn19lp.webp)

 

Image source: Web (Bing) / howtofixit.net (Web image (fair-use with source credit))

 

**Interpreting the results.**

 

| Self-test outcome | What it means | Next step |
| --- | --- | --- |
| Ice maker cycles and ejects ice | Module is working | Check water fill and temperature |
| Ice maker does nothing | Module is dead or not getting power | Replace the ice maker module |
| Ice maker turns but no water | Water inlet valve or supply issue | Inspect valve and water line |
| Ice maker fills but no ice forms | Freezer too warm or mold heater bad | Check temperature, then replace module |
| Ice maker runs but jams | Ejector fingers hitting something | Clear ice bin of stuck cubes or frost |

 

**One important detail.** If the ice maker runs the test but your fridge shows an error code like F11 on the display, that means the main control board lost communication with the ice maker module. Unplug the fridge for 30 seconds to reset it. If the error comes back, the module is faulty.

 

## Common Mistakes That Keep Your Ice Maker Dead (and Cost You a Service Call)

 

We see the same handful of mistakes over and over in aggregate reviews and feedback. Avoiding these will save you time and money.

 

**Mistake 1: Ordering parts before running the self-test.** This is the biggest one. People buy a new water valve or a new module without checking whether the old one actually works. Run the test first.

 

It takes 5 minutes and tells you exactly where the problem is.

 

**Mistake 2: Ignoring the water filter.** Many people do not realize that a clogged filter kills ice production. The ice maker needs good water pressure to fill the mold properly. If your filter is overdue for a change, that is likely the issue.

 

**Mistake 3: Setting the freezer too warm.** The panel on your fridge might say 0°F, but the actual temperature could be 10°F or higher. Ice production slows dramatically above 5°F. Always verify with a standalone thermometer.

 

**Mistake 4: Forcing the feeler arm.** Some people see the arm in the up position and force it down hard. That can break the plastic gear inside the module. Just push it gently.

 

If it does not move, do not force it.

 

**Mistake 5: Calling a technician for a $40 part.** A service call costs $100 to $150 just to walk in the door. If the self-test fails, the module is likely bad and costs about $40 to $60 at any appliance parts store. Swapping it takes 10 minutes with a nut driver.

 

Find the exact part number on the sticker on the side of your ice maker.

 

## Repair Costs, Part Numbers, and When to Call a Pro

 

Let us talk money. Most ice maker repairs are cheap and easy. But there is a line where it makes sense to hand it to a technician.

 

**Common parts and their prices as of 2026.**

 

| Part | Typical price | Difficulty | Time |
| --- | --- | --- | --- |
| Ice maker module (WP2188923 or 4317943) | $40–75 | Easy | 10 min |
| Water inlet valve | $25–50 | Moderate | 30 min |
| Water filter (4396508 or EDR4RXD1) | $10–20 | Easy | 2 min |
| Main control board | $80–150 | Hard | 45 min |

 

**When to call a pro.** If you have confirmed the module works, the valve works, the filter is new, and the temperature is correct, but the ice maker still fails, you might have a main control board problem or a sealed system issue. Those require specialized tools and knowledge. The diagnostic fee is worth it to avoid replacing parts you do not need.

 

**When to replace the fridge.** If your Amana is more than 10 years old and the ice maker issue is part of a larger problem like a loud compressor, leaking water, or failing defrost, it might be time to look at a new refrigerator. A major repair on an old fridge often costs half the price of a new one.

 

## Frequently Asked Questions

 

### Why is my Amana ice maker not making ice but the water dispenser works?

 

The water dispenser and ice maker share the same water supply line, but the ice maker has its own valve. If the dispenser works, the water line is fine. The issue is either the ice maker module, the water inlet valve for the ice maker, or a frozen fill tube.

 

Run the self-test to narrow it down.

 

### How do I reset my Amana ice maker?

 

Locate the test button on the side of the ice maker module. Press and hold it for 3 to 5 seconds. Some models require a double press.

 

You can also unplug the refrigerator for 30 seconds to reset the main control board and the ice maker together.

 

### What does error code F11 mean on my Amana fridge?

 

Error code F11 means a communication failure between the main control board and the ice maker module. Unplug the fridge for 30 seconds to reset it. If the code returns, the ice maker module is likely faulty and needs replacement.

 

### How long does it take for an Amana ice maker to start making ice after installation?

 

It takes about 24 hours for a brand new ice maker to start producing ice. The first batch is often slow because the mold and surrounding air need to cool down. If you see no ice after 48 hours, check the feeler arm, temperature, and water supply.

 

### Can a clogged water filter cause the ice maker to stop working?

 

Yes. A clogged filter reduces water pressure enough that the ice maker gets a weak or no fill. This results in small, hollow cubes or no ice at all.

 

Replace the filter every 6 months, or immediately if you notice a drop in ice production.

 

### Should I replace the ice maker module or the whole refrigerator?

 

Replace the module if the fridge is under 10 years old and works well otherwise. The module costs $40 to $75 and takes 10 minutes to swap. If the fridge is older and showing other signs of failure like a loud compressor, leaking, or warm spots, a new refrigerator is likely the better investment.