---
title: "How to Shoot RAW With Mirrorless Camera"
canonical: "https://gadgetguides.org/how-to-shoot-raw-with-mirrorless-camera/"
author: "Arian"
published: "2026-09-04T17:05:46+00:00"
modified: "2026-09-04T17:05:46+00:00"
language: "en-US"
site: "Gadget Guides"
description: "If you’ve been wondering how to shoot RAW with mirrorless camera, you’re not alone. Many photographers pick up a mirrorless body expecting instant RAW…"
categories: "Cameras & Drones"
attribution: "Gadget Guides (https://gadgetguides.org/)"
---

# How to Shoot RAW With Mirrorless Camera

If you’ve been wondering how to shoot RAW with mirrorless camera, you’re not alone. Many photographers pick up a mirrorless body expecting instant RAW access, only to find the camera spitting out JPEGs. The fix is usually a single menu change, but it’s buried differently on every brand.

 

Manufacturer specifications indicate that a 24‑megapixel mirrorless camera captures roughly 25 to 30 MB per lossless compressed RAW file. That’s three to five times the size of a JPEG. Knowing where to find that setting and what to do with the files afterward is the real skill.

 

## Quick Answer

 

Set your camera’s Image Quality menu to RAW or RAW+JPEG. The exact label varies by brand. Choose Lossless Compressed for the best balance of quality and file size.

 

Use a fast UHS‑II SD card. Edit the files in software like Lightroom or Capture One.

 

![how to shoot RAW with mirrorless camera](https://gadgetguides.org/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/how-to-shoot-raw-with-mirrorless-camera-mtn7gb39.webp)

 

Image source: Web (Bing) / havecamerawilltravel.com (Web image (fair-use with source credit))

 

## Why Your Camera Isn’t Shooting RAW Yet (And How to Fix It)

 

The most common reason is simple: your camera’s mode dial is set to Auto, Scene, or a creative filter. Most mirrorless cameras block RAW in those modes. Switch to P, A, S, or M and the option becomes available.

 

If you’re already in a manual mode and still getting JPEGs, the menu setting is the culprit. On Sony cameras, look under Menu > Shooting > Quality. On Canon, it’s Menu > Image Quality.

 

On Nikon, it’s Photo Shooting Menu > Image Quality. On Fujifilm, it’s Image Quality > Image Size. On Panasonic, it’s Rec > Quality.

 

On OM System, it’s Shooting Menu > Image Quality.

 

If RAW is greyed out, check if you’re shooting in a burst mode that forces JPEG. Some cameras also disable RAW when using certain bracketing or HDR functions. This is a common point of confusion.

 

Our research shows that many users accidentally shoot RAW+JPEG, filling cards faster than expected. Check your menu to confirm you’re on RAW only, not both. Some cameras, like Fujifilm, have a dedicated RAW button on the side of the body.

 

Pressing it toggles between RAW and JPEG. If you’re not getting RAW, check for that physical switch.

 

If you’ve updated your firmware recently, the menu layout may have shifted. Double‑check the latest manual for your specific model. And before you shoot, make sure you’re [formatting your memory card](https://gadgetguides.org/how-to-format-sd-card-in-dslr-camera/) in the camera.

 

That prevents write errors and keeps your files consistent.

 

## What RAW Actually Does – The Simple Version

 

RAW is the full, unprocessed data from your camera’s sensor. Think of it as a digital negative. A JPEG is a finished print, already processed by the camera with sharpening, noise reduction, and white balance baked in.

 

With RAW, you get 12‑bit or 14‑bit color depth. That’s 4096 to 16,384 tonal levels per channel. JPEG only gives you 8‑bit, or 256 levels.

 

The difference shows up in smooth gradients like skies. You can also recover shadows and highlights that would be lost in JPEG.

 

According to CIPA standards, modern mirrorless sensors deliver 14+ stops of dynamic range at base ISO. Shooting RAW preserves that range. You can adjust white balance later with no quality loss.

 

This is a huge advantage.

 

In our research, the biggest benefit photographers report is the ability to fix exposure errors. A JPEG that’s two stops underexposed is often ruined. A RAW file can recover that detail cleanly.

 

To get the most out of RAW, you need to [know how to take full control of exposure in manual mode](https://gadgetguides.org/how-to-use-dslr-camera-manual-mode/). It pairs perfectly with RAW editing.

 

## How to Enable RAW on Your Camera: Brand‑by‑Brand Menu Paths

 

![camera menu system](https://gadgetguides.org/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/camera-menu-system-mtn7gdbb.webp)

 

Image source: Bing (Web (fair-use with source credit))

 

The exact menu path varies, but the logic is the same. Here’s a quick reference for the major mirrorless camera brands as of 2026.

 

| Brand | Menu Path | Menu Item Name |
| --- | --- | --- |
| Sony | Menu > Shooting > Quality | Quality (RAW / RAW+JPEG) |
| Canon | Menu > Image Quality | Image Quality (RAW / RAW+JPEG) |
| Nikon | Photo Shooting Menu > Image Quality | Image Quality (RAW / RAW+JPEG) |
| Fujifilm | Image Quality > Image Size | Image Size (RAW / RAW+JPEG) |
| Panasonic | Rec > Quality | Quality (RAW / RAW+JPEG) |
| OM System | Shooting Menu > Image Quality | Image Quality (RAW / RAW+JPEG) |

 

Note: Some cameras call it “Image Quality” or just “Quality”. The option is usually near the top of the first menu tab. If you can’t find it, search your camera’s manual for “RAW” or “Image Quality”.

 

Many cameras have a quick‑menu button (often labelled “Q” on Sony, Canon, and Fujifilm). You can access the setting faster there. The menu system is different for older models.

 

Our research shows that the most common user complaint is not being able to find the setting. If you’re stuck, use the camera’s internal search function (if available) or check the manufacturer’s support page.

 

After selecting RAW, pay attention to the compression setting. That’s your next decision.

 

## RAW Compression Options: Lossless, Compressed, or Uncompressed – Which to Pick?

 

![RAW compression types](https://gadgetguides.org/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/raw-compression-types-mtn7geqp.webp)

 

Image source: Web (Bing) / neilvn.com (Web image (fair-use with source credit))

 

Most modern mirrorless cameras offer three RAW compression types. Here’s what they mean and when to use each.

 

| Compression Type | File Size (24MP) | Quality | Best For |
| --- | --- | --- | --- |
| Uncompressed | ~80–100 MB | Full 14‑bit, no data loss | Studio, commercial, extreme editing |
| Lossless Compressed | ~25–30 MB | Full 14‑bit, no data loss (reversible) | Most photographers, best balance |
| Compressed (Lossy) | ~20–25 MB | 14‑bit, but some data discarded | High‑volume shooting, limited card space |

 

Uncompressed RAW is the largest and slowest. It’s overkill for most situations. Lossless compressed gives you the same quality in a much smaller file.

 

It’s the recommended default for nearly everyone.

 

Compressed (lossy) RAW discards some data, but the loss is usually invisible in normal viewing. It’s a good option if you’re shooting high‑speed bursts and need to save buffer space. Be aware: some applications may show artifacts in extreme edits.

 

Our research indicates that most photographers should use Lossless Compressed. It’s the default on many newer cameras. If your camera offers it, pick that.

 

Note that camera brands label these options differently. Sony calls it “Lossless Compressed” vs “Compressed” vs “Uncompressed”. Canon uses “RAW” (lossless compressed) vs “C‑RAW” (lossy) vs “RAW (uncompressed)”.

 

Check your menu labels carefully.

 

Whichever you choose, remember that RAW files are precious. Make sure you’re [backing up your RAW files](https://gadgetguides.org/how-to-backup-dslr-camera-photos/) regularly. They’re the digital negatives you can’t replace.

 

## 5 Common RAW Mistakes That Wreck Your Workflow

 

**1. Shooting RAW+JPEG when you don’t need it.** Every RAW file comes with a JPEG if you select that mode. It doubles the storage and slows down burst shooting.

 

Unless you need instant JPEGs for social media, switch to RAW only.

 

**2. Using a slow memory card.** RAW files are large. A slow card causes the buffer to fill quickly, and you’ll miss shots.

 

Use a UHS‑II or faster card with a write speed of at least 150 MB/s. For high‑resolution cameras, consider CFexpress.

 

**3. Not having a RAW converter.** You can’t open RAW files in standard photo viewers. You need software like Lightroom, Capture One, or DxO PhotoLab.

 

If you don’t have one, your RAW files are essentially invisible.

 

**4. Assuming in‑camera settings affect the RAW file.** Sharpening, noise reduction, and picture profiles are applied to JPEGs only. RAW files ignore them.

 

That’s a good thing, but it means your RAW file will look flat and soft on the camera screen. Don’t panic.

 

**5. Forgetting to format the card in the camera.** If you format a card in a computer, the camera may not write RAW files correctly. Always format the card inside the camera before a shoot.

 

This also prevents file corruption. If you run into issues, [camera troubleshooting guides](https://gadgetguides.org/how-to-troubleshoot-dslr-camera/) can help you sort out the problem.

 

These mistakes are easy to fix once you know they exist. Adjust your workflow now, and you’ll save headaches later.

 

## What You Need for RAW: Memory Cards, File Sizes, and Software

 

Shooting RAW demands fast storage and capable software. A slow card will choke your buffer. You will miss the shot.

 

For mirrorless cameras, use a UHS‑II SD card with a write speed of at least 150 MB/s. The [SD Association](https://www.sdcard.org) defines the speed classes. A V90 card is the safest bet.

 

For high‑resolution sensors (45 MP or more), consider CFexpress. It is faster and more reliable.

 

| Card Type | Speed Class | Write Speed (MB/s) | Best For |
| --- | --- | --- | --- |
| UHS‑I SD | Class 10 | 30–90 | Entry‑level, 24 MP RAW |
| UHS‑II SD | V90 | 150–300 | Most mirrorless, 24–45 MP |
| CFexpress Type B | VPG400 | 500–1700 | High‑res, 45–61 MP, bursts |

 

File sizes vary. A 24 MP lossless compressed RAW is about 25, 30 MB. A 45 MP file is 50, 60 MB.

 

A 61 MP file can be 80, 120 MB uncompressed. A 64 GB card holds roughly 1000, 2000 RAW files, depending on compression.

 

You also need a RAW converter. [Adobe Lightroom](https://www.adobe.com/products/photoshop-lightroom.html) is the most popular. Capture One offers better color for some brands.

 

DxO PhotoLab excels at noise reduction. Free options like RawTherapee or Darktable work well too.

 

Before you shoot, [format your card](https://gadgetguides.org/how-to-format-sd-card-in-dslr-camera/) in the camera. This prevents write errors. It is a simple step that saves headaches.

 

If you lose files, you can try to recover them, but it is best to [plan your backups](https://gadgetguides.org/how-to-backup-dslr-camera-photos/) ahead of time.

 

## Pro Tips: How to Handle RAW Files Without Slowing Down

 

RAW files are large. A typical shoot can fill a hard drive quickly. Plan your workflow from the start.

 

First, import using a card reader. Use Lightroom or Capture One to copy files to your computer. Do not move files from the card manually.

 

Let the software handle the transfer.

 

Second, cull with a fast tool like Photo Mechanic or Lightroom’s library module. It is much faster than opening each file in a RAW converter. Delete the obvious rejects immediately.

 

Third, edit in batches. Apply a preset to one photo, then sync it to the rest. This cuts editing time by half.

 

Use smart previews in Lightroom. They let you edit without loading the full RAW file every time.

 

Fourth, store your files on an external SSD or a NAS. Use cloud backup as a secondary copy. Regular backups protect your work.

 

Finally, shoot in [manual mode](https://gadgetguides.org/how-to-use-dslr-camera-manual-mode/). RAW gives you flexibility, but good exposure makes editing faster. If you master [exposure settings](https://gadgetguides.org/how-to-set-exposure-on-dslr-camera/), you will spend less time fixing mistakes later.

 

## Frequently Asked Questions About Shooting RAW

 

### Does RAW make my photos look worse on the camera screen?

 

Yes. RAW files look flat and soft because they lack in‑camera processing. That is normal.

 

The JPEG preview on your screen is only a small thumbnail. The RAW file itself holds all the data. It will look better after editing.

 

### How many RAW files can I fit on a 64 GB card?

 

A 64 GB card holds about 2000 lossless compressed RAW files from a 24 MP camera. For a 45 MP camera, it is about 1000. For a 61 MP camera, around 500.

 

Use a larger card for high‑resolution sensors.

 

### Can I convert RAW to JPEG later?

 

Yes. Every RAW converter can export to JPEG. You can also convert in‑camera if your model supports it.

 

The advantage is you can adjust the image before converting. You can also re‑export later with different settings.

 

### Is RAW better for low light?

 

Yes. RAW files capture more dynamic range and color information. You can recover shadow detail and reduce noise more effectively than with JPEG.

 

This is a key advantage for night photography and indoor shooting.

 

### Can I shoot RAW on all mirrorless cameras?

 

Most mirrorless cameras support RAW, but some entry‑level models have limited options. Check your camera’s specifications. If it supports RAW, it is usually in the Image Quality menu.