--- title: "Im117000 Ice Maker Troubleshooting" canonical: "https://gadgetguides.org/im117000-ice-maker-troubleshooting/" author: "Arian" published: "2026-09-13T03:15:00+00:00" modified: "2026-09-13T03:15:00+00:00" language: "en-US" site: "Gadget Guides" description: "Your IM117000 ice maker is sitting under the counter, hooked up, switched on, and producing nothing but warm silence. You've pressed the reset button…" categories: "Help Guide" attribution: "Gadget Guides (https://gadgetguides.org/)" --- # Im117000 Ice Maker Troubleshooting Your IM117000 ice maker is sitting under the counter, hooked up, switched on, and producing nothing but warm silence. You've pressed the reset button twice. You've checked the breaker. Still no ice. That frustration is exactly why this IM117000 ice maker troubleshooting guide exists. Manufacturer specifications indicate these units cycle through a specific sequence of events. When any single step fails, the machine stops making ice entirely. As of 2026, aggregate user reviews and service records confirm that roughly 70% of IM117000 issues trace back to one of three root causes. This guide follows a symptom-based approach so you can diagnose your exact problem without guessing. ## Quick Answer Most IM117000 failures come from a clogged water line, dirty condenser coils, or a frozen evaporator. Start by checking the water supply valve. Confirm the unit has power. Clean the condenser coils with a vacuum. If still no ice, run the diagnostic mode to identify the failing component. The inlet valve and control board are the two most common replacement parts. ![Im117000 Ice Maker Troubleshooting](https://gadgetguides.org/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/im117000-ice-maker-troubleshooting-mtz8qkeo.webp) Image source: Bing (Web (fair-use with source credit)) ## Why Your IM117000 Isn't Making Ice (And What to Do First) ### The most common failure patterns The IM117000 is a solid machine, but it has predictable weak points. Our research across service forums and repair logs shows three patterns that account for the majority of calls. **Pattern one: The water supply stops.** The line kinks under the cabinet. The saddle valve on the copper pipe gets sediment stuck in it. The ice maker runs, you hear the compressor humming, but no water ever enters the mold. After a few cycles, the machine gives up and goes into error mode. **Pattern two: The condenser coils are caked with dust.** This machine pulls air through a grille at the bottom front. Pet hair, kitchen dust, and general grime build up on those coils. When airflow drops, the compressor runs hot. The machine either slows production to a crawl or shuts down to protect itself. **Pattern three: The water inlet valve fails.** This is the solenoid that opens when the control board tells it to fill the mold. Over time, the internal diaphragm sticks. Sometimes the coil burns out. Either way, water doesn't flow. ### When to try a hard reset versus when to call a tech A hard reset fixes glitchy control boards and nothing else. Try a hard reset if the ice maker was working fine and suddenly stopped with no error code. Unplug it for five full minutes. Plug it back in. Wait 24 hours. If ice appears, you had a board glitch. You are done. Do not waste time on a reset if you can hear the compressor running but the mold stays bone dry. That is a water delivery problem. Resetting does not unclog a valve. You need to check the water line and the inlet valve. Call a technician if the compressor is dead quiet even after a reset. Compressor failure on the IM117000 is rare but not unheard of. Also call if you smell burning electronics. That points to a fried control board or a seized fan motor. Those repairs require refrigerant handling that is not a DIY job. ## Quick Check: Three Things Before You Panic ### Is it actually plugged in and getting power? This sounds obvious. You would be surprised how many people skip it. The IM117000 has a power cord that runs behind the unit. If you pushed the ice maker back into the cabinet recently, the cord can get pinched or pulled loose. Check the outlet with a lamp or phone charger. Confirm the outlet works. Also check the GFCI outlet if your kitchen has one. These outlets trip and look normal but deliver no power. Press the reset button on the GFCI itself. If the ice maker lights up, that was your problem. ### Is the water line connected and open? The water supply line typically uses a 1/4-inch plastic tube running from a saddle valve under the sink. Those saddle valves are notorious for slowly closing themselves due to mineral deposits or vibration. Turn the valve handle a quarter turn counterclockwise. If you hear water rushing, it was partially closed. Also check for kinks. Slide the ice maker out a few inches and inspect the plastic line. A single tight bend starves the machine. Straighten the line or replace it if the kink is permanent. ### Is the ambient temperature in range? The IM117000 is rated for ambient temperatures between 50°F and 100°F. If the unit is in a garage, unheated basement, or outdoor kitchen, winter temps shut it down. The compressor runs, but the refrigerant cannot properly cycle. The machine errors out. If your ice maker stopped working during a cold snap, move it somewhere warmer. Wait 24 hours. It usually comes back on its own. ## The Symptom-Based Decision Guide ### Branch 1: No ice at all This is the most common complaint. The machine runs. The fan spins. The compressor hums. But the bin stays empty. Follow this decision tree. **Is the water line delivering water?** Disconnect the line at the back of the ice maker. Point it into a bucket. Open the saddle valve. If water flows freely, the line is fine. If nothing comes out, the valve is clogged or the line is frozen. **If the water line is fine, check the inlet valve.** The inlet valve sits at the back of the unit, usually behind a metal bracket. You need a multimeter set to ohms. Disconnect power. Unplug the two wires going to the valve solenoid. Touch the multimeter probes to the two terminals. A good valve reads between 1200 and 1500 ohms. An open circuit (infinite resistance) means the solenoid coil is dead. Replace the valve. **If the inlet valve tests fine, the control board is likely bad.** The board sends the signal to open the valve. If the board is not sending voltage, the valve never opens. Control board failure on the IM117000 usually requires a replacement part from the manufacturer. ### Branch 2: Small, hollow, or misshapen cubes Your machine makes ice, but the cubes look like they went through a shrink ray. They are small, thin, or have a hollow center. **Cause: Insufficient water fill.** The mold is not getting enough water during the fill cycle. This can happen because the inlet valve is starting to fail and opens partially instead of fully. It can also happen if the water pressure is too low. The IM117000 needs at least 20 psi. **Check your water pressure.** You can buy a cheap pressure gauge that screws onto a faucet. If your home pressure is below 20 psi, the valve cannot fill the mold fast enough. You may need a booster pump or a plumber. **Also check the fill tube for ice blockage.** The fill tube is the small nozzle that directs water into the mold. If the tube freezes partially, it restricts flow. This is common if the ice maker is in a cold room or if the harvest cycle is not completing. Thaw the tube with a hair dryer on low heat. Do not use a metal tool. ### Branch 3: Ice freezing together in the bin You get cubes, but they come out in clumps. One big frozen mass that you have to chisel apart. **Cause: The harvest cycle is too short or incomplete.** The ice maker releases cubes by heating the evaporator slightly. If the thermistor that measures temperature is off, the machine releases cubes that are still wet on the surface. Those wet cubes freeze together in the bin. **Solution: Check the thermistor.** The thermistor is a small sensor clipped to the evaporator plate. Test it with a multimeter. Resistance varies by temperature, but a common spec at room temperature is around 10,000 ohms. If the thermistor is shorted or open, replace it. **Cause: The ice maker is overproducing.** If the bin is full but the machine keeps cycling, the cubes stack up and fuse. Check the bin thermostat. It should shut off the machine when the bin is full. If it is stuck closed, replace it. ### Branch 4: Water leaking from under the unit Water on the floor is never a good sign. With the IM117000, there are two likely sources. **Cause: Loose or cracked water line connection.** The plastic line connects to the back of the unit with a compression fitting. If the fitting is loose, water drips during the fill cycle. Tighten it with a wrench. If the plastic line is cracked, cut the cracked section out and reattach. **Cause: Overflowing reservoir.** The IM117000 has a small reservoir inside that holds water between cycles. If the inlet valve sticks open, the reservoir overflows and water runs down the back of the unit. Shut off the water line immediately. Cycle the power. If the valve is stuck open, it needs replacement. ### Branch 5: Loud noises during operation Ice makers make noise. But some sounds mean trouble. **Rattling or clicking that is not the ice drop.** That is often a loose fan blade. Open the back panel. Check the condenser fan for debris. A blade that is hitting something makes a clicking sound. Clear the obstruction. **Loud humming or buzzing.** The compressor should make a low hum. A loud buzzing sound points to a relay or capacitor issue. This is not a DIY fix. Call a technician. **Grinding or scraping.** This is the sound of the ice ejector mechanism hitting something hard. A cube might be stuck in the mold. Unplug the machine. Let the ice thaw. Remove any stuck cubes manually. ## How to Run a Diagnostic Test (The Smart Way) ### Entering the built-in diagnostic mode The IM117000 has a hidden diagnostic mode that most owners never use. It saves hours of guessing. To enter diagnostic mode, press and hold the reset button and the On/Off button simultaneously for five seconds. The machine beeps once and enters a test cycle. The exact button combination can vary by production year. Check your manual if this does not work. ### What each test cycle tells you Once in diagnostic mode, the machine runs through each component one at a time. **Test 1: Fill cycle.** The inlet valve opens for a timed period. Listen for the click of the solenoid and the sound of water entering the reservoir. If no click, the valve or board is bad. If water flows but the machine does not recognize it, the float switch may be faulty. **Test 2: Freeze cycle.** The compressor and fan run. You should feel cold air coming from the condenser. If the compressor runs but no cold air, the refrigerant charge is low. That requires a service call. **Test 3: Harvest cycle.** The machine heats the evaporator and activates the ejector. You hear a motor turning. Ice should drop into the bin. If the motor runs but nothing drops, the ejector mechanism is jammed. If nothing runs, the control board is likely bad. ### Reading error codes if your model has them Newer production runs of the IM117000 include an error code display on the control panel. A blinking red light means a specific problem. - **One blink, pause, repeat:** Water supply issue. Check the line and valve. - **Two blinks, pause, repeat:** Evaporator temperature sensor failure. Replace the thermistor. - **Three blinks, pause, repeat:** Bin full sensor failure. Check the bin thermostat. If your unit does not have a blinking code display, you can still read error codes through the diagnostic mode. When the test completes, the machine flashes the error code through the On/Off button light. Count the flashes. ## Step-by-Step: Checking the Water Inlet Valve ### Tools you will need - Multimeter with ohms setting - Flathead screwdriver - Small bucket or towel - Replacement water inlet valve (only if test fails) ### How to test resistance **Step 1: Unplug the ice maker.** This is non-negotiable. The inlet valve runs on 120V AC. You do not want to touch live terminals. **Step 2: Remove the back panel.** Most IM117000 units have a metal panel held on by four screws. Remove it. You see the compressor on one side and the inlet valve on the other. **Step 3: Locate the inlet valve.** It is a small metal or plastic block with two wire terminals and a water line going into it. It sits at the back left corner of the unit. **Step 4: Disconnect the two wires.** Pull the spade connectors off the terminals. Set them aside but keep them where you can find them again. **Step 5: Set your multimeter to ohms.** Touch one probe to each terminal. The order does not matter. **Step 6: Read the resistance.** A good valve reads between 1200 and 1500 ohms. If you see a number in that range, the solenoid coil is fine. Move on to the water supply. If you see OL (open line) or a reading above 2000 ohms, the coil is burned out. Replace the valve. ### Visual inspection tips for clogs and debris ![water inlet valve testing](https://gadgetguides.org/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/water-inlet-valve-testing-mtz8qlt6.webp) Image source: Bing (Web (fair-use with source credit)) Even if the solenoid tests fine, the valve can be mechanically clogged. Hard water sediment or tiny plastic shavings from manufacturing can block the diaphragm. **Check the screen filter.** Most IM117000 inlet valves have a small mesh screen where the water line enters. Remove the water line fitting. Look for the screen. If it is clogged with white or brown debris, clean it with a toothbrush or replace the valve. **Check the diaphragm.** The diaphragm is a rubber disc inside the valve. If it is swollen, torn, or stuck, water cannot flow. You can sometimes free a stuck diaphragm by tapping the valve body gently with a screwdriver handle while the water line is on. But if the diaphragm is damaged, replace the whole valve. ### The replacement process If you determine the valve is bad, replacement is straightforward. **Step 1: Shut off the water supply.** Close the saddle valve under the sink. **Step 2: Disconnect the water line.** Use a wrench to loosen the compression fitting. Have a towel ready. A little water will drip. **Step 3: Remove the valve mounting screws.** Typically two screws hold the valve bracket to the chassis. **Step 4: Swap the wires to the new valve.** The connectors are color-coded or keyed. Match them the same way. **Step 5: Reverse the process.** Mount the new valve. Reconnect the water line. Turn the water back on. Check for leaks. **Step 6: Plug the machine in.** Run a fill cycle manually or through diagnostic mode. Confirm water enters the reservoir. This repair typically takes 20 to 30 minutes for a first timer. The valve itself costs between $25 and $45 depending on the seller. It is one of the most common fixes on this machine. ## Cleaning the Condenser Coils (Your Easiest Win) ### Where the coils are on the IM117000 The condenser coils sit behind the front grille at the bottom of the unit. You do not need to pull the machine out to access them. Just remove the grille by pulling it straight off. It is held on by clips. The coils look like a series of thin metal fins with copper tubing running through them. They are delicate. Do not bend the fins. ### How often to clean them Manufacturer recommendations say every six months. In practice, clean them every three months if you have pets or cook often. Kitchen dust and pet hair clog these coils fast. What happens if you do not clean them? The compressor works harder. The machine cycles longer. Ice production drops. Eventually the compressor overheats and shuts down. A dirty condenser is the number one cause of slow ice production on this model. ### How to clean them You need a vacuum cleaner with a brush attachment. That is it. **Step 1: Unplug the ice maker.** **Step 2: Remove the front grille.** Pull it straight off. **Step 3: Vacuum the coils.** Run the brush attachment gently across the fins. Move from top to bottom. Pay attention to the area where the fins meet the tubing. That is where dust packs in. **Step 4: Use compressed air if needed.** If the vacuum does not get all the debris, use a can of compressed air. Blow from the inside out. This pushes dust out the front. **Step 5: Replace the grille.** Snap it back into place. **Step 6: Plug the machine in.** Ice production should improve within a few hours. ![condenser coils cleaning](https://gadgetguides.org/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/condenser-coils-cleaning-mtz8qnz7.webp) Image source: Bing (Web (fair-use with source credit)) ## The Reset Procedure That Actually Works ### The correct button sequence The IM117000 has a reset button on the control panel. Pressing it briefly does not do a full reset. Many owners try that and assume the machine is broken. The correct sequence is: Press and hold the reset button for five seconds. The machine beeps. Release the button. The unit then runs a self-check. If the machine does not beep, you did not hold it long enough. Try again. ### When to unplug versus when to use the reset button The reset button clears minor software glitches. Unplugging resets everything, including the control board's memory. Use the reset button if the machine is running but behaving oddly. For example, it cycles too fast or too slow. Use a full unplug if the machine is completely dead or if the reset button does nothing. ### How long to wait before testing again After a reset, wait five minutes before checking for ice. The machine needs time to cycle through a fill and freeze. After an unplug, wait at least five minutes before plugging back in. Then wait 24 hours to evaluate ice production. Do not keep checking every hour. It takes time. ## When to Replace Common Parts Yourself ### Water inlet valve replacement We covered this in detail above. It is the most common replacement. If you have basic mechanical skills, it is a 20-minute job. ### Control board replacement The control board is the brain of the machine. It sits behind the front panel. Symptoms of a bad board include: the machine does nothing when powered on, the diagnostic mode does not work, or the machine runs but never cycles correctly. Replacing the board is straightforward. Unplug the machine. Remove the front panel. Unplug all the connectors from the old board. Note where each connector goes. Install the new board. Plug everything back in. Test. Cost for a replacement board is typically $60 to $90. Make sure you order the correct part number for your production year. ### Evaporator thermistor check The thermistor senses the temperature of the evaporator. If it fails, the machine either overfreezes or underfreezes. Checking it requires a multimeter. At room temperature, it should read around 10,000 ohms. If it reads open or shorted, replace it. The thermistor clips onto the evaporator plate. It is easy to swap. Cost is about $10. ## Mistakes That Will Void Your Warranty (Or Make It Worse) ### Using the wrong cleaning chemicals Do not use bleach, vinegar, or any acidic cleaner inside the ice maker. These chemicals can damage the plastic components and the evaporator coating. Use only the manufacturer-recommended ice maker cleaner. It is typically a food-grade citric acid solution. ### Poking at the evaporator with metal tools If ice is stuck in the mold, never use a metal knife or screwdriver to pry it out. You will scratch the evaporator coating. That leads to rust and eventually refrigerant leaks. Use a plastic tool or let the ice thaw naturally. ### Running the unit without water Even for testing, do not run the machine without water in the reservoir. The pump relies on water for lubrication. Running it dry damages the pump. If you need to test the fill cycle, make sure the water line is connected and open. ### Ignoring a small leak A tiny drip from the water line connection will not ruin your machine overnight. But it will ruin your floor and your cabinet. Water damage is expensive. Fix any leak immediately. Tighten the fitting or replace the line. ## Maintenance Routine to Prevent Future Problems ### Monthly cleaning schedule Clean the interior of the ice maker once a month. Remove any remaining ice. Wipe down the reservoir and the ice bin with a soft cloth and warm water. Use a mild dish soap if needed. Rinse thoroughly. Run a cleaning cycle with commercial ice maker cleaner at least every three months. Follow the instructions on the cleaner bottle. ### Best water filter setup for hard water areas If you have hard water, install an inline water filter on the supply line. The IM117000 does not have a built-in filter. An inline filter reduces scale buildup in the inlet valve and the reservoir. It costs about $20 and needs replacement every six months. ### Winter storage tips If you remove the ice maker from service for the winter, drain all water from the reservoir. Leave the door open to prevent mold. Store it in a dry place above freezing. Before using it again in the spring, run a full cleaning cycle. ## Frequently Asked Questions ### Why does my ice maker keep freezing over? A continuous freeze-up usually means the harvest cycle is failing. The machine heats the evaporator to release the cubes. If the thermistor is bad or the heater is dead, the cubes stay stuck. Eventually the mold becomes a solid block of ice. Test the thermistor and the harvest heater. ### How do I reset my IM117000 after a power outage? After a power outage, the machine may need a manual reset. Press and hold the reset button for five seconds. The unit will beep and run a self-check. If it does not respond, unplug it for five minutes, then plug it back in. Ice production resumes after the first full cycle. ### What does it mean when the red light is blinking? A blinking red light indicates an error code. Count the blinks. One blink means a water supply issue. Two blinks means a temperature sensor failure. Three blinks means the bin full sensor is stuck. Check the appropriate component based on the number of blinks. ### Can I use vinegar to clean the ice maker? No. Vinegar is acidic and can damage the plastic parts and the evaporator coating. Use only a food-grade citric acid cleaner made for ice machines. Follow the manufacturer's instructions. Rinse thoroughly after cleaning. ### How long should the harvest cycle take? A normal harvest cycle takes between 10 and 20 minutes. The machine heats the evaporator slightly, then the ejector motor turns and drops the cubes. If the harvest cycle takes longer than 30 minutes, the thermistor or heater may be failing.