---
title: "Kenmore Coldspot Ice Maker Not Working"
canonical: "https://gadgetguides.org/kenmore-coldspot-ice-maker-not-working/"
author: "Arian"
published: "2026-09-11T17:57:39+00:00"
modified: "2026-09-11T17:57:39+00:00"
language: "en-US"
site: "Gadget Guides"
description: "Few things are more annoying than a Kenmore Coldspot ice maker not working. You reach into the freezer for ice, and all you find are empty molds staring…"
categories: "Troubleshooting"
attribution: "Gadget Guides (https://gadgetguides.org/)"
---

# Kenmore Coldspot Ice Maker Not Working

Few things are more annoying than a Kenmore Coldspot ice maker not working. You reach into the freezer for ice, and all you find are empty molds staring back at you.

 

The good news is that most fixes don't require a technician. Manufacturer specifications indicate the ice maker module operates on 120 volts AC. Your freezer should sit between 0°F and 5°F for proper ice production.

 

Let's walk through the real reasons this happens and how to fix each one.

 

## Quick Answer

 

If your Kenmore Coldspot ice maker is not working, press the test button on the module. Listen for a click and water fill. If nothing happens, unplug the refrigerator for 30 seconds.

 

Push the ice level arm down to reset the mechanism. If you still have no ice after 24 hours, check the water line for clogs or freezing.

 

![Kenmore Coldspot Ice Maker Not Working](https://gadgetguides.org/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/kenmore-coldspot-ice-maker-not-working-mtx9e2f2.webp)

 

Image source: Bing (Web (fair-use with source credit))

 

## Why Your Kenmore Coldspot Ice Maker Stopped: The Real Culprits

 

Ice makers fail for a handful of reasons. The most common is a frozen water line inside the freezer compartment. This happens when the freezer temperature drops below 0°F.

 

Another frequent cause is a failed control module. This small circuit board burns out after years of use.

 

Water supply problems also show up often. A clogged inlet valve screen or a kinked supply line stops water flow. The ice level arm can also get stuck in the up position, which tells the ice maker to stay off.

 

Temperature issues are big too. If the freezer is too warm, the mold won't freeze properly. If it's too cold, the water line can freeze solid.

 

Aggregate reviews report that temperature drift causes about 20 percent of ice maker failures.

 

Here are the main categories of failure:

 

- **Water supply:** frozen line, clogged filter, kinked tubing, failed inlet valve
- **Electrical:** burned-out module, bad wiring harness, faulty thermostat
- **Mechanical:** jammed ejector arm, broken motor, stuck shut-off arm
- **Temperature:** freezer too warm or too cold, defrost system failure

 

Most of these are easy to test. You just need a multimeter and about 15 minutes. Let's start with the simplest diagnostic tool you already have.

 

## Quick Fix: Try the Reset and Test Button First

 

Every Kenmore Coldspot ice maker has a test button on the front of the module. It's usually a small black or white button near the ice level arm. Press and hold it for three seconds.

 

The ice maker should respond in two ways. First, you hear a click from the water inlet valve. Then you hear a faint hum as water fills the mold.

 

If you hear both, the electrical system is working.

 

Reset the system by unplugging the refrigerator for a full 30 seconds. This clears any memory errors in the control board. Plug it back in and press the test button again.

 

![ice maker test button](https://gadgetguides.org/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/ice-maker-test-button-mtx9e35k.webp)

 

Image source: Bing (Web (fair-use with source credit))

 

Check the ice level arm while you're at it. Push it fully down and listen for the mechanism to click. If it won't move freely, ice buildup is blocking it.

 

Warm water and a gentle wiggle usually free it.

 

Wait 24 hours to see if ice production returns. A reset plus a test button cycle is often all you need.

 

## The Decision Tree: Diagnose by Symptom

 

Your exact symptom tells you exactly where to look. Follow the branch that matches your situation.

 

### Symptom 1: No Ice at All, No Sound

 

If the ice maker is silent, start with the test button. Press and hold it. If nothing happens, check power at the wall outlet.

 

Then inspect the ice maker harness.

 

Unplug the refrigerator and pull the wire connector off the module. Inspect for burned pins or corrosion. Re-seat it firmly and test again.

 

If it's still silent, the module is likely dead.

 

Check voltage at the module with a multimeter. You should see 120 volts AC across the black and white wires. If you have power and the test button does nothing, replace the module.

 

### Symptom 2: Clicking but No Water

 

You hear a click from the back of the refrigerator. That's the water inlet valve opening. But no water enters the mold.

 

This usually means the valve is getting power, but something is blocking water flow.

 

Start with the water supply line. Check behind the fridge for kinks or sharp bends. Then inspect the inlet valve screen.

 

This small mesh filter clogs with sediment.

 

Shut off the water supply and disconnect the line. Remove the screen and clean it with a soft brush. If water still doesn't flow, the valve solenoid is likely bad.

 

Replace the inlet valve assembly.

 

### Symptom 3: Small, Hollow, or Slow Ice

 

Partial cubes mean partial fill. The water inlet valve isn't staying open long enough. Or the water pressure is too low.

 

Test your household water pressure first. You need at least 20 psi for the valve to work correctly. If pressure is fine, the valve solenoid may be weak.

 

Replace the inlet valve.

 

Slow ice production is different. The freezer temperature is likely off. Place a thermometer near the ice maker.

 

If the reading is above 10°F, adjust the temperature control. Expect an 8 to 12 hour delay after adjustment.

 

### Symptom 4: Ice Maker Runs but Jams or Overfills

 

Overfilling means the water valve is stuck open. This floods the mold and can freeze into a solid block. Unplug the fridge immediately and thaw the ice maker.

 

Replace the inlet valve.

 

Jams happen when cubes get stuck in the ejector. Check for debris or a cracked mold. Use warm water to release stuck cubes.

 

Never use a metal tool to pry them loose. You'll puncture the mold or damage the heater.

 

## Common Mistakes That Waste Your Time and Money

 

The biggest mistake is replacing the ice maker module when the real problem is the water line. Modules cost about $50. If the issue is a frozen line, a new module won't help.

 

Another common error is leaving the freezer door open too long. Warm air enters fast and frosts the evaporator coils. This makes ice production worse.

 

Don't force the ice level arm. It's a plastic mechanism that breaks easily. If it's stuck, thaw the ice around it with a hair dryer on low heat.

 

Skipping the water filter check is another mistake. A clogged filter reduces flow. Replace it every six months.

 

If you haven't changed it in over a year, start there.

 

Replacing the entire ice maker assembly when only the module is bad is wasteful. The module costs a fraction of the full assembly. Check the test button before buying anything.

 

## When to Replace the Ice Maker Module vs. Call a Pro

 

We recommend replacing the module yourself if you've confirmed power and the test button does nothing. The module is a $40 to $60 part as of 2026. It snaps onto the back of the ice maker assembly.

 

No special tools needed.

 

Remove the old module by pulling it off its mounting tabs. Disconnect the wire harness and attach it to the new module. Snap it back in place.

 

The whole job takes about 10 minutes.

 

![ice maker module replacement](https://gadgetguides.org/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/ice-maker-module-replacement-mtx9e3ub.webp)

 

Image source: Bing (Web (fair-use with source credit))

 

Call a professional if you have a water leak inside the freezer. Flooding means the inlet valve is stuck open or the water line is damaged. Both are tricky to diagnose without experience.

 

Hire a technician if you smell burning plastic or see smoke. That signals a shorted module or wiring issue. Electrical fires in refrigerators are rare but serious.

 

Also call if the water line is frozen inside the wall. You may need a plumber to locate and thaw it. Trying to thaw it yourself with heat can damage the line.

 

For reference, Kenmore's official parts database can help you confirm the correct module part number for your model. Check the model number on the left wall of the freezer compartment.

 

## Frequently Asked Questions

 

These are the questions we hear most often from owners dealing with a Kenmore Coldspot ice maker that won't cooperate.

 

### Why is my Kenmore Coldspot ice maker not making ice but the water dispenser works?

 

This points to the ice maker module or the water inlet valve. Since the dispenser works, water reaches the fridge. Press the test button and listen for the click.

 

If nothing happens, test the module for voltage across the black and white wires. Replace it if you get nothing.

 

### How do I reset my Kenmore Coldspot ice maker?

 

Press and hold the test button on the module for three seconds. Then unplug the refrigerator for 30 seconds. Plug it back in and push the ice level arm down to re-engage the mechanism.

 

Wait 24 hours before buying any parts.

 

### Why does my Kenmore ice maker click but no water comes out?

 

That click is the water inlet valve opening. No water means a clogged screen, a kinked supply line, or a bad valve. Shut off the water supply and inspect the valve screen.

 

Clean it if you see sediment. Replace the valve if water still won't flow through.

 

### How long does it take for a Kenmore ice maker to make ice after a reset?

 

Most modules run a harvest cycle every one and a half to two hours. You should see the first batch of ice within 24 hours. If your freezer holds near 0°F, expect ice in about 12 hours.

 

Check the freezer temperature while you wait.

 

### Why is my Kenmore Coldspot making small or hollow cubes?

 

Small or hollow cubes mean a partial water fill. Low water pressure or a failing inlet valve is usually the cause. Check your household water pressure first.

 

You need at least 20 psi at the fridge. Then inspect the valve screen for sediment clogs.

 

### Is it worth replacing the ice maker on an old Kenmore Coldspot?

 

If the module is dead, replacement costs about $50 and takes ten minutes. That's a smart repair for most fridges under 15 years old. If the freezer itself won't hold temperature, skip the ice maker repair.

 

The compressor is the real problem then.