John Deere 317 Skid Steer Problems
Dealing with John Deere 317 Skid Steer Problems? You're not alone. These compact loaders are workhorses, but age takes its toll.
Whether it's a no-start on a frosty morning or hydraulic arms that just won't lift, the 317 has known weak points.
Most 317s now run with 20-plus years on the clock, powered by a 23-horsepower Yanmar 3TNV76 diesel. The good news? Many issues follow predictable patterns.
Diagnosing in the right order saves you hours and a pile of wasted parts.
Image source: Bing (Web (fair-use with source credit))
Start Here: Diagnosing the 317 in the Right Order
Jumping straight to part replacement is a classic mistake. The 317's systems work together, so a fuel issue can mimic a hydraulic one. Work through a logical sequence instead.
Start with the easy stuff. Check the hydraulic fluid level when the machine is cold and sitting level. Low fluid causes weak lift and jerky drive.
Next, load-test the battery. A 23-horsepower Yanmar needs full cranking voltage, so clean corroded cables first.
If the engine cranks but won't fire, move to the safety switches. A failed seat switch or parking brake sensor kills the fuel solenoid. Test those before touching the glow plugs.
Use this order every time:
- Fluid levels (hydraulic oil, engine oil, coolant)
- Battery condition and cable connections
- Safety switch circuit (seat, brake, harness)
- Fuel supply (filter, lines, shutoff solenoid)
- Hydraulic pressure (gear pump, charge pump)
That order covers 80% of common 317 failures without buying a single part. It also stops you from replacing good parts and calling it a fix.
Engine Problems: No Start, Stalling, Overheating
Why won't it start on a cold morning? The glow plugs are your first suspect. The Yanmar 3TNV76 needs them to fire above 40°F. Test each glow plug with a multimeter; they should read under 2 ohms.
If one is open, the whole set won't preheat properly.
Why does it run and then die? That's almost always fuel supply. Clogged fuel filters, air in the lines, or a failing shutoff solenoid. Bleed the system after any filter change.
No bubble-free fuel means no running.
Why is it overheating? Check the cooling pack first. Owners ignore it because it's hidden. Dust and debris plug the radiator fins, and the hydraulics dump heat right next to it.
Clean the fins with compressed air from behind. Also verify the coolant level and thermostat operation.
| Symptom | Likely Cause | Quick Test |
|---|---|---|
| Hard cold start | Glow plug failure | Check resistance (under 2 ohms) |
| Starts, stalls out | Air in fuel | Bleed lines, look for leaks |
| Overheating | Blocked cooling pack | Inspect and clean radiator fins |
| Dies at idle | Bad fuel solenoid | Listen for click when key turns |
Hydraulic Problems: Slow Lift, Weak Drive, and Drift
Hydraulic issues frustrate 317 owners the most. First, separate the two circuits. The gear pump runs your loader and implements.
The charge pump feeds the drive motors. Different failures, different fixes.
Slow lift but decent drive? That points to the gear pump. Test pressure at the quick couplers. You should see around 2,500 psi.
If it's low, the pump wear plate is shot or the relief valve needs adjustment.
Weak traction on both sides? That's the charge pump or drive motors. Measure charge pressure. The spec is about 400 psi at idle.
Low pressure usually means a worn charge pump or a leaking seal in a drive motor. Also, check the tires. Mismatched or low-pressure tires make it feel like a traction loss.
Boom drifts down when parked? Cylinder seals are wearing. You can rebuild the lift cylinders with OEM seal kits. Don't ignore it; drift gets worse and can drop a load unexpectedly.
Image source: Bing (Web (fair-use with source credit))
Electrical & Safety Switch Faults: When It Oddly Refuses to Run
A 317 that cranks but won't run is often not a fuel problem. It's a safety switch problem. The seat switch and parking brake switch form a series circuit with the fuel solenoid.
If either fails, the machine lies dead.
How to test the seat switch: Disconnect the harness and check for continuity when you press the seat. No continuity? Replace it.
Also inspect the wiring under the seat area for chafed or pinched wires. This is a leading culprit.
The 3-wire fuel solenoid also confuses people. It has two coils. One pulls the plunger, one holds it.
If the holding coil fails, the machine starts but dies as soon as you release the key. Test both coils for correct resistance per the John Deere service manual. For official wiring schematics and torque specs, John Deere's parts site has you covered.
Image source: Web (Bing) / deviantart.com (Web image (fair-use with source credit))
Mistakes to Avoid: Don't Replace Parts Blindly
The biggest waste of money is guessing. Pump replacement costs more than the machine's value. Always test pressure before buying a pump.
Same goes for glow plugs: test resistance first.
Never use ether with a cold 317. The Yanmar has glow plugs, and ether can ignite violently. It can blow glow plugs straight out of their holes or crack a piston ring. Wait for the preheat cycle instead.
Cinder blocks under a raised boom? Absolutely not. They crumble without warning. Use an OEM boom lock or solid hardwood cribbing.
If you must work under a raised boom, pin it with the factory lock. OSHA's skid steer guidance requires blocking the bucket or attachment before working underneath. Follow that rule.
Safety Warnings Before Any DIY Fix
Working on a 317 carries real risk. The machine weighs over 6,000 pounds, and stored hydraulic energy can injure you in seconds. Follow these rules every time.
Never trust hydraulics to hold the boom. The lift cylinders can bleed down without warning. Always block the boom with the factory lock or solid hardwood cribbing. Cinder blocks are not safe.
They crack and collapse under the weight.
Relieve hydraulic pressure before opening any line. Shut off the engine. Cycle the control levers in all directions. Then crack a fitting slowly.
Hot oil under pressure can burn skin and cause serious injury.
Disconnect the battery before working on electrical components. Ground the negative cable and tape the terminal. A shorted wire can weld tools or start a fire.
| Safety Task | Why It Matters | How to Do It Right |
|---|---|---|
| Block the boom | Prevents crushing if hydraulics fail | Use OEM lock or 6×6 hardwood |
| Relieve pressure | Prevents burns from hot oil | Cycle controls after engine off |
| Disconnect battery | Prevents sparks and shorts | Remove ground terminal first |
| Lift rating | Know the machine's limits | Use correct jack stands |
Use rated blocking for any under-machine work. The official OSHA guidance requires rated blocking before any under-machine work. For the full safety requirements, consult OSHA's skid steer operation resources.
Maintenance That Prevents Most 317 Issues
A consistent maintenance schedule keeps the 317 running longer. Many breakdowns come from neglected basics.
Change hydraulic fluid and filters every 500 hours or two years. The charge pump relies on clean oil. Contaminated fluid wears pump plates and motor seals fast. Use only the spec oil from the service manual.
Check the cooling stack monthly. Dirt packs between the radiator and oil cooler. This causes overheating that damages the engine and hydraulic system. Blow it out with compressed air from the back side forward.
Inspect fuel system components. Replace the fuel filter every 200 hours. Add diesel conditioner in cold months. This prevents gelling and injector fouling.
Grease all pivot points. The 317 has grease fittings on the boom pins, bucket linkage, and axle bearings. Do this every 10 hours of operation. Dry pins wear out quickly and create slop in the loader arms.
Keep the battery charged and terminals clean. A weak battery strains the starter and glow plug system. This leads to hard starting and electrical glitches.
| Maintenance Item | Interval | Key Detail |
|---|---|---|
| Hydraulic oil and filter | 500 hours | Use spec viscosity per manual |
| Engine oil and filter | 100 hours | 2 quarts with filter |
| Fuel filter | 200 hours | Bleed system after change |
| Radiator cooling stack | Monthly | Clean with compressed air |
| Grease pivot points | 10 hours | All boom and bucket fittings |
Frequently Asked Questions
Why won't my 317 start after it ran fine yesterday?
Check the safety switch circuit first. The seat switch or parking brake switch often fails suddenly. Test continuity through the harness to the fuel solenoid.
Also verify fuel supply. Air in the lines after a filter change is another common cause.
How do I know if my hydraulic pump is actually bad?
Test pressure at the quick couplers with a gauge. The gear pump should deliver about 2,500 psi. Low pressure means a worn pump or relief valve issue.
Don't replace the pump without confirming pressure readings first.
What's the best way to move a dead 317 into the shop?
Push it with another machine or use a heavy tow strap. Disconnect the drive motors by pulling the charge pump pressure line. This releases the hydrostatic lock.
Never tow it at road speeds or long distances.
How long should glow plugs last on a 317?
They typically last 2,000 to 3,000 hours or about three years of regular use. Cold climate operation shortens their life. Test them yearly with a multimeter.
Replace all four at once for even heat.
Can I upgrade the 317 hydraulic system for more flow?
Some owners install a higher-flow gear pump. Check the engine horsepower first. Overloading the Yanmar 3TNV76 causes overheating and premature wear.
The factory high-flow option (18.7 gpm) is the safe upgrade path.
Should I buy a used 317 with known electrical issues?
Only if the price reflects the repair cost. Electrical faults are often simple to fix. A bad harness or switch is cheap.
But if the engine has internal damage or the pumps are worn, walk away. Get a mechanical inspection before buying.
Similar Posts
