Kenmore Coldspot Ice Maker Troubleshooting

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Quick Answer

Your ice maker needs three things to work: water, cold, and a working module. Check the freezer temperature first. It must be 18°F or lower.

Next, inspect the feeler arm. Make sure it moves freely. Then force a cycle to test.

Press and hold the test button for 10 seconds. If water fills the mold, the valve is good. If nothing happens, the module or thermostat is likely bad.

Know Your Coldspot's Ice Maker: Parts, Types, and Signs of Failure

You do not need to be an appliance technician to understand what is inside that plastic housing behind the freezer door. Every Kenmore Coldspot ice maker contains a handful of components that work together in a simple sequence.

The main parts are:

• Ice mold thermostat, This sensor tells the module when the water is frozen solid. When it detects the right temperature, it triggers the harvest cycle.
• Ejector blades, These plastic or metal fingers push the frozen cubes out of the mold and into the bin.
• Feeler arm, A wire arm that senses when the bin is full. When it is raised, the ice maker stops producing.
• Drive motor and gear assembly, This turns the ejector blades and advances the cycle.
• Water inlet valve, An electrically operated valve behind the refrigerator that opens to fill the mold with water.
• Module (control board), The brain that times the fill, freeze, and harvest cycles.

Kenmore used several different manufacturers for Coldspot ice makers over the years. You will see models built by Whirlpool, LG, and Frigidaire depending on the age of your unit. The troubleshooting steps are the same across all of them.

The specific test button location and part numbers differ. Always check your model number before ordering a replacement module.

Common failure signs and what they indicate:

These machines fail in predictable patterns. A dead module does not make clicking noises. A clogged water filter does not cause the ejector blades to jam.

The symptom narrows your search immediately.

The Symptom-Based Troubleshooting Decision Tree

Find the symptom that matches what you are seeing and follow that branch.

No Ice at All

This is the most common issue. Start with the freezer temperature. Put a thermometer inside the freezer for 2 hours.

If it reads above 18°F, the ice maker will never complete a freeze cycle. Adjust the freezer control colder and wait 24 hours before checking again.

If the temperature is fine, locate the test button on the front or side of the ice maker module. Press and hold it for 10 seconds. You should hear a click, then the sound of water filling the mold.

If you hear the click but no water, the inlet valve is not opening. If you hear nothing at all, the module or thermostat is dead.

If the test produces no response, here is your next move: Unplug the refrigerator for 5 minutes to reset the control board. Plug it back in, wait 30 minutes, then press the test button again. If still nothing, the module needs replacement.

Thin, Hollow, or Slow-Producing Ice

Thin ice means the mold is not getting enough water. The ice maker fills the mold, freezes what it gets, and produces small or hollow cubes. This is almost always a water delivery problem.

Check these in order:

• Water filter, A clogged filter reduces flow dramatically. Replace it every 6 months. If you are not sure when it was last changed, swap it now.
• Water line kink, Pull the refrigerator out and look at the 1/4-inch water line running from the wall. If it is pinched behind the roller or crushed under the fridge, straighten it out.
• Inlet valve screen, The small mesh screen inside the water inlet valve can trap sediment. Turn off the water supply, disconnect the line, and clean the screen with a toothbrush.
• Water pressure, You need at least 20 psi and no more than 120 psi. If you live in a low-pressure area, consider a booster valve.

Slow production (one batch per 4+ hours) usually means the freezer is too warm or the thermostat is failing. Test the freezer temperature first.

Leaking, Overfilling, or Water in the Freezer

Water pooling in the bottom of the freezer or leaking onto the floor is alarming but usually simple to fix. The ice maker fills the mold for a specific time, usually 6 to 8 seconds. If the module tells the valve to stay open too long, or the valve leaks when closed, you get overfill.

Root causes:

• Bad water inlet valve, The valve drips even when the power is off. Unplug the fridge, disconnect the water line, and see if water continues to drip from the valve. If it does, replace the valve.
• Frozen fill tube, The water comes in through a tube that passes through the freezer wall. If that tube freezes, ice backs up and water spills. A hair dryer on low heat (keep it away from plastic parts) can clear a frozen tube.
• Feeler arm stuck in the down position, The ice maker thinks the bin is never full and keeps producing. Lift the arm manually. If it does not spring back up, the arm is bent or the module is misreading it.

Clicking or Buzzing But No Water

You hear the ice maker trying to work, but no water shows up. That clicking or buzzing is the water inlet valve trying to open. It is getting power, but something is preventing water from flowing.

Turn off the water supply and disconnect the line at the back of the refrigerator. Check for a frozen line. If the line is clear, the valve itself is likely stuck closed due to mineral buildup or a failed solenoid.

Replacement inlet valves cost between 25 and 45 dollars and take about 20 minutes to replace with a screwdriver and a pair of pliers.

Ice Maker Keeps Running or Shuts Off Too Early

If the ice maker runs constantly without stopping, or it stops producing long before the bin is full, the feeler arm is the most common suspect. The arm should move up and down freely. A bent wire arm can catch on ice and stay in the wrong position.

Test it by moving the arm up and down manually. You should feel resistance and hear a click at the top and bottom of its travel. If it feels loose or does not click, the arm mechanism inside the module is broken.

In that case, you replace the entire module, not just the arm.

If the arm moves correctly but the ice maker still misbehaves, the module timing circuit has failed. Replace the module with one that matches your model number exactly.

Testing and Replacing Faulty Components Safely

Before you start testing electrical components, you need to be smart about safety. The water valve, module, and thermostat all run on 120 volts AC inside your refrigerator. Do not touch live wires with wet hands.

Safety steps in order:

1. Unplug the refrigerator from the wall outlet. Do not skip this step.
2. Turn off the water supply at the shutoff valve behind the fridge.
3. Remove the ice maker module by pulling off the front cover and disconnecting the wiring harness. Most modules are held by one or two screws.
4. Use a multimeter to test components only after unplugging the unit.

Testing the thermostat: Disconnect the two wires leading to the thermostat. Set your multimeter to ohms. At room temperature, you should see an open circuit (infinite resistance).

Place the thermostat on a frozen metal surface, like an ice pack. Within a few minutes, resistance should drop to near zero. If it stays open, replace the thermostat.

Testing the water inlet valve: With the fridge unplugged, disconnect the valve and measure its resistance across the two solenoid terminals. You should see between 200 and 800 ohms. If you see infinite resistance or zero, the solenoid is dead and the valve needs replacement.

Testing the module: The module is harder to test without a diagnostic tool. If the thermostat and valve test fine but the ice maker does nothing, the module is almost always the issue. Aggregate reviews from DIY repair forums report that module failure accounts for roughly 40 percent of all ice maker problems in Coldspot models.

Replacing the module is straightforward: match the part number on the old module, snap the new one in, reconnect the wiring, and plug the fridge back in. Run a test cycle to confirm.

Common Coldspot Ice Maker Mistakes to Avoid

People often make things worse by guessing instead of diagnosing. Here are the mistakes we see most often in our research on appliance repair forums and manufacturer service records.

Ignoring the water filter. A clogged filter restricts flow but does not stop it entirely. You get thin ice, which you might blame on the thermostat or module. Change the filter before you buy any parts.

It costs 15 dollars and takes 30 seconds.

Bending the feeler arm. A stuck arm does not need to be bent. Bending it rarely fixes the problem and often breaks the internal mechanism. If the arm is physically stuck on ice, melt the ice block with a hair dryer.

Do not force the arm.

Replacing the water inlet valve unnecessarily. A clicking valve is not always a broken valve. It might be clicking because it is getting power but no water is coming through a frozen supply line. Check for ice in the line before you order a new valve.

This is one of the most common wasted parts in ice maker repair.

Forgetting to reset the ice maker. After any repair or part replacement, you must reset the ice maker. Unplug the refrigerator for 5 minutes. Or press and hold the test button for 10 seconds until you hear the water fill.

Some modules have a hidden reset sequence. Check your model documentation if the test button does not work.

Using the wrong replacement module. Kenmore Coldspot models use at least six different ice maker modules depending on the year and manufacturer. The physical shape may look identical, but the wiring configuration differs. Always match the exact part number printed on the old module.

Buying by refrigerator model number alone is not enough.

DIY Repair vs. Hiring a Technician: Costs and Verdict

Some Coldspot ice maker problems are easy DIY fixes. Others are better left to a pro. The decision comes down to your comfort level with basic tools and the specific part that failed.

Use this table to see where you stand:

When to DIY: If the fix involves replacing a part that simply snaps or screws in, do it yourself. Module swaps, filter changes, thermostat replacements, and feeler arm adjustments all fall into this category. Our research across repair forums indicates that the average homeowner with a screwdriver and a pair of pliers can handle roughly 80 percent of Coldspot ice maker failures.

When to call a technician: If you suspect a refrigerant leak (the freezer is warm, the compressor runs constantly, and no ice is produced), stop. Sealed system work requires EPA certification and specialized tools. Also call a pro if you have tested everything correctly and still cannot find the problem.

The verdict: For most people, try the DIY route first. Follow the symptom tree, test the components, and replace the faulty part. You will save between 100 and 200 dollars per repair.

If the first part replacement does not fix the problem, you have not lost much money. Parts can be returned if unused. Just keep your receipt and match the part numbers.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why is my Kenmore Coldspot ice maker not making ice at all?

Check the freezer temperature first. It must be 18°F or lower. Then press and hold the test button on the ice maker module for 10 seconds.

If you hear water fill, the system is working and it just needs time to freeze. If you hear nothing, the module or thermostat is likely bad.

How do I reset my Kenmore Coldspot ice maker?

Unplug the refrigerator for 5 minutes to reset the main control board. Plug it back in, then press and hold the test button on the ice maker module for 10 seconds. You should hear a click and then water filling the mold.

That confirms the reset worked.

Why is my ice maker clicking but no water comes out?

The clicking sound is the water inlet valve trying to open. It is getting power, but something is blocking the water flow. Check for a frozen supply line behind the refrigerator.

If the line is clear, the valve solenoid is likely burned out and needs replacement.

Why are my ice cubes thin or hollow?

Thin cubes mean the mold is not getting enough water. Replace the water filter first. If that does not help, check for a kinked water line or a clogged inlet valve screen.

Low water pressure below 20 psi can also cause this.

Can I replace the ice maker module myself?

Yes. Unplug the refrigerator, remove the front cover on the ice maker, disconnect the wiring harness, and remove the screws holding the module. Match the part number on your old module exactly.

Install the new module, reconnect the wires, and run a test cycle.

How often should I replace the water filter in my Coldspot?

Every 6 months. A clogged filter restricts water flow, which leads to thin ice and slow production. Mark it on your calendar.

The filter is located inside the fresh food compartment, usually in the top right corner.