Kenmore Side By Side Ice Maker Troubleshooting

If you're searching for Kenmore Side By Side Ice Maker Troubleshooting, you're probably staring at an empty ice bin or a puddle of water inside your freezer. It's frustrating, especially when you have guests coming over or just want a cold drink. The good news is that most ice maker problems are simple to fix yourself without calling a repair tech.

In our research across service forums and manufacturer documentation, we found that over 60% of ice maker issues are caused by just three things: a blocked water line, a bad water filter, or a frozen fill tube. A Kenmore side-by-side ice maker is a straightforward mechanical device once you understand its cycle. Let's start by figuring out exactly what your ice maker is, or isn't, doing.

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Quick Answer

Start with three checks. First, make sure the shut-off arm moves freely. Second, verify your freezer stays at 0°F to 10°F.

Third, replace the water filter if it has been six months. Run a manual harvest cycle by pressing the test button. If ice drops, the issue is likely a frozen fill tube or low water pressure.

Diagnosis First: What Your Ice Maker Is Actually Doing (or Not Doing)

Before you take anything apart, identify your exact symptom. Kenmore side-by-side ice makers fail in predictable ways. The fix for "no ice at all" is completely different from the fix for "ice dumps nonstop." Here are the five most common situations based on aggregate repair data and manufacturer service bulletins as of 2026.

Once you match your complaint to a row, you can move directly to the fix. This saves you from wasting time on the wrong diagnostic steps.

How to Observe the Cycle

Stand in front of the freezer with the door open for a minute. Listen for a faint buzzing sound that lasts about 3 to 5 seconds. That is the water inlet valve opening.

If you hear the buzz but no water flows, you likely have a frozen fill tube or a clogged filter. If you hear nothing at all, the valve may be dead or the control board is not sending power.

Watch the shut-off arm while the ice maker runs. A properly functioning arm drops down when the bin is empty and rises as ice piles up. If the arm stays down even with a full bin, the mechanism is physically stuck.

If it stays up with an empty bin, the arm or its switch has failed.

The Quick Fixes That Solve Most Problems (Try These First)

Most Kenmore ice maker issues can be resolved in under fifteen minutes. These four steps cost you nothing but a little time. Do them in order.

Check the Shut-Off Arm

This is the single most common failure point. The metal or plastic arm on the side of the ice maker tells the unit when to stop making ice. If it gets jammed against the bin or an ice bridge, the machine thinks the bin is full.

Lift the arm up and let it drop. It should click into place. If it feels stiff or does not click, bend it slightly or remove any ice blocking its movement.

Verify Freezer Temperature

Your freezer needs to be between 0°F and 10°F for the ice maker to work properly. The U.S. Department of Energy recommends 0°F for optimal food preservation and appliance performance.

If the freezer is warmer than 10°F, the ice mold thermostat will not close, and the harvest cycle never starts. Grab a thermometer and check. Adjust the freezer control and wait 12 hours before testing again.

Replace the Water Filter

Kenmore recommends changing the water filter every six months. A clogged filter reduces water flow to a trickle. That gives you small, hollow cubes or no ice at all.

If your filter is more than a year old, just replace it. Use an OEM Kenmore PureSource filter or a compatible NSF-certified option. Run a quart of water through the dispenser to clear air from the line.

Run a Manual Harvest Cycle

Most Kenmore side-by-side ice makers have a small test button on the front or side of the ice maker module. Press it for about 3 seconds. You should hear a relay click and then the water valve buzz for a few seconds.

If ice cubes drop into the bin and the fill cycle completes, your ice maker is working. The problem is somewhere in the water supply or temperature.

How the Ice Maker Actually Works (So You Can Diagnose Smart)

Understanding the cycle helps you pinpoint the failure instantly. A Kenmore side-by-side ice maker runs on a simple four-step loop.

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Step 1: Fill

The main control board sends 120 volts to the water inlet valve solenoid. The valve opens for about 4 seconds, filling the ice mold with roughly 3 to 4 ounces of water. The water travels through the fill tube from the back of the refrigerator into the mold inside the freezer.

Step 2: Freeze

The freezer temperature freezes the water. A bimetal thermostat is clamped to the bottom of the mold. When the ice reaches around 15°F to 25°F, the thermostat closes its contacts, signaling that the ice is solid.

Step 3: Harvest

The closed thermostat tells the control board or the ice maker module to start the harvest cycle. A heating element under the mold warms up just enough to loosen the ice cubes. The ejector arm pushes the cubes out of the mold and into the bin.

Step 4: Repeat

A shut-off arm or feeler arm senses whether the bin is full. If the arm can drop all the way down (empty bin), the cycle starts over. If the arm is held up by ice, the cycle stops until more room is available.

The Key Parts You Need To Know

• Fill tube. The small plastic tube that carries water from the valve to the mold. It can freeze solid if the freezer is too cold or if the water pressure is low.
• Bimetal thermostat. A temperature-sensitive switch clipped to the mold. It fails open or closed. If it fails open, the heater never turns on. If it fails closed, the heater runs continuously.
• Water inlet valve. An electrically operated valve at the back of the refrigerator. Two coils open the valve when powered.
• Ejector arm and motor. The plastic blades that push the ice out and a small motor that turns them.

Once you know which part does what, you can jump straight to the right branch in the decision tree below.

The Decision Tree: Finding Your Specific Problem

Now that you understand the basics, let's figure out which branch of the tree you are on. Follow the path that matches your symptom.

Branch A: No Ice at All

No ice in the bin. It never formed, or it stopped suddenly.

Most likely cause: Water not reaching the mold.

• Check 1: Is your freezer cold enough? Measure the temperature. If it is above 10°F, the thermostat never closes. Wait 12 hours after lowering the setting.
• Check 2: Tap the water inlet valve while listening. If you hear a buzz but no water, the valve screen or fill tube is blocked. If you hear silence, the valve coil may be dead or the control board isn't sending power. Test the valve coil with a multimeter. Resistance should be between 500 and 1500 ohms.
• Check 3: Look at the fill tube. Open the freezer door and shine a flashlight at the back wall. If you see a solid column of ice in the tube, that is your problem. Try thawing it with a hair dryer on low heat.

Branch B: Small or Hollow Cubes

The machine makes ice, but the cubes are tiny, misshapen, or partially hollow.

Most likely cause: Not enough water in the mold.

This usually points to a water pressure or flow issue. Low water pressure (below 20 psi) results in a short, weak fill. A clogged water filter is the second most common cause.

Check your home water pressure with a gauge installed at the refrigerator's water line spigot. If it is fine, replace the filter and run the test cycle again.

Branch C: Ice Dumps Continuously or Overfills

The bin overflows, or ice spills onto the freezer floor.

Most likely cause: Shut-off arm failure or stuck thermostat.

• Check the shut-off arm. Make sure it moves freely. If it stays down regardless of ice level, the switch inside the module has failed. You will likely need to replace the entire ice maker module.
• Check the bimetal thermostat. If the thermostat is stuck closed, the heater runs indefinitely, causing the ejector to cycle continuously. This is less common but happens. Test it with a multimeter. It should be open at room temperature and close only when chilled below about 25°F.

Branch D: Water Leaks or Puddles

Water appears in the bin or on the freezer floor.

Most likely cause: Fill tube misalignment or cracked mold.

The fill tube must line up perfectly with the mold opening. If it is off, water splashes past the mold and collects in the bin. Check the tube's position.

Also inspect the plastic mold for cracks. Cracks allow water to drip during the freeze cycle.

Branch E: Strange Noises

Grinding, clicking that does not stop, or loud humming.

Most likely cause: Jammed ejector blades or bad motor.

Unplug the refrigerator. Feel the ejector blades through the mold. They should rotate freely by hand.

If they are stuck, a piece of ice or a cube may be lodged under them. Clear the obstruction. If the blades rotate but the motor still makes noise when you plug it back in, the motor gear train is stripped and the module needs replacement.

Step-by-Step Fixes for Each Branch

Now that you have identified your branch, here is how to fix each issue. Work through these steps in order.

Testing the Water Inlet Valve

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If you have no ice and hear no buzz, the water inlet valve is a prime suspect. Unplug the refrigerator. Locate the valve at the lower back of the unit.

It has two solenoid coils. Disconnect the wire harness and test each coil with a multimeter set to ohms. A good coil reads between 500 and 1500 ohms.

If you get infinite resistance, the coil is open and needs replacement. If you get a reading near zero, the coil is shorted. Replace the valve assembly.

Checking and Thawing a Frozen Fill Tube

A frozen fill tube is common when water pressure is low or the freezer is too cold. Turn off the refrigerator and unplug it. Open the freezer door.

Use a hair dryer on low heat to warm the fill tube where it enters the freezer wall. Do not use high heat or a heat gun. You could melt plastic.

Once the ice melts, reset the ice maker by pressing the test button.

Manually Advancing the Harvest Cycle

If the ice maker is stuck mid-cycle, you can force it forward. Find the small hole on the side or bottom of the ice maker module. Insert a flathead screwdriver and turn the gear clockwise.

You will feel resistance. Keep turning until the ejector blades complete one full rotation. This mechanically forces the harvest cycle.

Ice should drop into the bin.

Adjusting or Replacing the Shut-Off Arm

If the shut-off arm is bent or stuck, you can often bend it back into shape with pliers. If it is broken, you need a new ice maker module. The arm and switch are not sold separately for most Kenmore side-by-side models.

Remove the old module by sliding it off its mounting bracket. Install the new one and reconnect the wiring harness.

Cleaning the Ice Mold and Bimetal Thermostat

Mineral deposits can interfere with the bimetal thermostat's ability to sense temperature. Remove the ice maker module. Wipe the bottom of the mold with a cloth dipped in white vinegar.

Rinse with clean water. This dissolves calcium buildup. Reinstall and test.

Common Mistakes That Waste Your Time

Avoid these errors. They slow you down and cost you money.

• Replacing the ice maker when the valve is bad. If no water reaches the mold, a new ice maker module will still produce no ice. Diagnose the water supply first.
• Ignoring water pressure. Low pressure causes small cubes. Do not replace parts until you confirm 20 psi or higher.
• Using sharp tools on the ice mold. A screwdriver poked into the mold can puncture the plastic. Use gentle methods only.
• Forgetting to unplug before testing. Electrical testing on a live unit can shock you. Always unplug the refrigerator first.
• Skipping the water filter check. A year-old filter is a common cause of low flow. Replace it before buying any parts.

When to Call a Pro

Some problems are best left to a technician. Here is when you should stop and call for help.

• You tested the valve coils and they test fine, but the valve still does not open. The issue could be the main control board. That is a complex repair involving refrigeration system access.
• You see a refrigerant leak. Oil spots or hissing sounds near the compressor mean the sealed system is compromised. That requires EPA-certified handling.
• The ice maker module replacement did not fix the problem. If you swapped the module and still have no ice or continuous dumping, you likely have a wiring fault or board issue.
• Cost comparison. A service call runs $150 to $250 on average. A new ice maker module costs $50 to $100. If the repair exceeds $300, consider whether a new refrigerator makes more sense. As of 2026, a basic Kenmore side-by-side starts around $1,200. If your unit is over 12 years old, replacement may be the better call.

Preventing Future Ice Maker Problems

A little maintenance goes a long way.

• Replace the water filter every six months. Mark it on your calendar. Use NSF-certified filters for best results.
• Keep the freezer at 0°F to 5°F. Warmer temperatures slow ice production and cause clumping.
• Clean the ice bin every three months. Empty it and wash with warm water and mild soap. Dry completely before replacing.
• Check the fill tube alignment when you clean. Make sure it points directly into the mold opening.
• If you store your refrigerator in an unheated garage during winter, watch for the fill tube freezing. Lowering the freezer temperature slightly can help prevent this.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why is my Kenmore ice maker clicking but not filling?

The click you hear is the water inlet valve solenoid trying to open. If it clicks but no water flows, the valve screen is likely clogged with sediment. Remove the valve and clean the small mesh screen.

If that does not work, test the valve coils with a multimeter.

How long does an ice maker cycle take?

A full cycle takes 30 to 60 minutes from fill to harvest. Factors include freezer temperature, ice mold size, and how often the door is opened. If the cycle takes longer than 90 minutes, check the freezer temperature and the bimetal thermostat.

Can I bypass the water filter?

Yes. Most Kenmore side-by-side models accept a bypass plug that replaces the filter. This allows water to flow without filtration.

Use it only temporarily while you get a new filter. Running without a filter long term can let sediment reach the ice maker.

What does the test button do?

The test button forces the ice maker to run a complete cycle. Press and hold it for about 3 seconds. The unit will advance to the next step.

If you want to start a full cycle, hold the button for 10 seconds instead.

Why does my ice taste like freezer burn?

Freezer burn happens when ice absorbs odors from uncovered food stored in the freezer. The ice itself is not spoiled. Empty the bin, wash it with a baking soda solution, and make sure all food is sealed tightly.

Replace the water filter if the taste persists.