Whirlpool Wrx735sdbm00 Ice Maker Troubleshooting

Your ice maker stopped working, and you're standing in front of an empty bin wondering what went wrong. Whirlpool Wrx735sdbm00 ice maker troubleshooting doesn't have to be a guessing game. This model is one of the most common side-by-side refrigerators on the market, and its ice maker issues follow predictable patterns.

If you search through aggregate reviews and owner forums, you'll find the same complaints repeated over and over. No ice after a power outage. A frozen fill tube.

Ice that refuses to dispense. Manufacturer specifications indicate the ice maker cycles every 90 to 120 minutes under normal conditions. When that stops happening, there are typically only four or five root causes.

Let's walk through each one.

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Quick Answer

Check the door switch first. If the freezer door doesn't register as closed, the ice maker won't run. Listen for a click when you press the switch.

If you hear nothing, the switch is likely bad. If the switch clicks fine, inspect the fill tube for ice blockage. Those two issues account for roughly 70 percent of all problems on this model as of 2026.

Problem / Pain Point: Why Your Ice Maker Stopped Working

This is frustrating because it feels random. One day you have ice. The next day, nothing.

The bin sits empty, and the dispenser gives you silence. You are not alone in this. Verified buyer feedback for the Whirlpool WRX735SDBM00 shows that ice maker failure is the most commonly reported issue across all reviews.

The real pain point here isn't just the lack of ice. It's the uncertainty. You don't know if the fix is a five-minute reset or a $150 service call.

You don't know if you caused the problem by leaving the door open too long or if the ice maker simply gave out. That ambiguity is what makes this so aggravating.

Here's the good news. The WRX735SDBM00 uses a modular ice maker system. Individual parts like the water inlet valve, the ice maker module, and the door switch can be replaced independently.

You don't need to replace the entire refrigerator. In most cases, you don't even need to replace the whole ice maker assembly. A single failed component is usually the culprit.

The bad news is that some symptoms look identical. A frozen fill tube and a failed water inlet valve both produce the exact same result. No water in the ice mold.

That's why blindly replacing parts costs people time and money. You need a clear diagnosis first.

How the Ice Maker Actually Works

Understanding the cycle helps you narrow down the problem faster. The ice maker on the WRX735SDBM00 follows a simple four-step process. Each step depends on the previous one working correctly.

Step one: the door switch signals the ice maker. When the freezer door closes, it presses a small plunger switch. This switch tells the control board that the door is shut. If the switch doesn't make contact, the ice maker never gets the green light to start.

This is a safety feature. It prevents the ice maker from running with the door open.

Step two: the ice maker module initiates a harvest cycle. Once the door switch confirms the door is closed, the module waits for the thermostat inside the ice maker to reach the right temperature. That temperature is typically around 15 degrees Fahrenheit. When the mold is cold enough, the module sends a signal to the water inlet valve.

Step three: the water inlet valve opens. This valve is a solenoid connected to your household water supply line. When it receives voltage from the ice maker module, it opens for about 7 to 10 seconds. That lets a measured amount of water flow through the fill tube and into the ice mold.

If the water pressure is too low, the mold only gets a partial fill. If the valve fails, you get no water at all.

Step four: the ejector arm pushes the cubes out. After the water freezes, the module heats the mold slightly to release the cubes. The ejector arm rotates and pushes the cubes into the bin below. Then the cycle repeats.

Every troubleshooting step should trace backward through this sequence. No ice at all means something failed in step one, two, or three. Ice but small or hollow cubes points to step three.

Ice that won't dispense is usually a separate problem with the dispenser chute or auger motor.

The Decision Tree: Symptom → Possible Cause → Fix

This is where real troubleshooting begins. Use the symptom your ice maker is showing to follow the correct branch.

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Branch 1: No Ice At All

If the ice maker hasn't produced a single cube in days, start with the door switch. Open the freezer door and press the plunger with your finger. You should hear a distinct click.

No click means the switch is stuck or broken. Replace it. The door switch part number for the WRX735SDBM00 is W10438296, but confirm with your unit's serial number.

If the switch clicks fine, move to the ice maker module. Unplug the refrigerator for 30 seconds and plug it back in. This resets the module.

Wait 90 minutes. If no ice appears, the module itself may have failed. A replacement module costs roughly $35 to $60 and takes about 10 minutes to install.

Remove the ice maker cover, unplug the harness, remove two screws, and swap the module.

If the module doesn't fix it, test the water inlet valve. You'll need a multimeter for this. Disconnect the valve from the refrigerator, set your meter to continuity, and touch the two terminals.

If you get no reading, the valve coil is burned out. Replace the valve.

Branch 2: Ice Maker Cycles But No Water

You can hear the ice maker click and whir, but no water enters the mold. This is almost always a frozen fill tube. The fill tube runs from the back of the refrigerator into the freezer compartment.

If the tube freezes, water can't reach the mold.

Confirm this by looking at the ice maker mold. If it's completely dry and the ice maker is cycling, the tube is blocked. Thaw it using a hair dryer on low heat.

Point the nozzle at the tube where it enters the freezer wall. Don't use high heat. You don't want to melt the plastic housing.

It usually takes 5 to 10 minutes to clear the blockage.

A frozen fill tube happens when warm, humid air enters the freezer. This occurs most often when the door is left open. The moisture condenses inside the tube and freezes.

Prevent it by making sure the door closes fully and the door gasket seals properly.

Branch 3: Ice Is Too Slow, Too Small, or Misshapen

Slow ice production means the mold isn't getting cold enough fast enough. Check the freezer temperature first. It should be at or below 0 degrees Fahrenheit.

If it's warmer than that, the ice maker can't keep up. Adjust the thermostat and wait 24 hours.

Small or hollow cubes indicate low water pressure. The fill tube needs a full 7 to 10 second spray to make solid cubes. If your household water pressure is below 20 psi, the valve can't fill the mold completely.

Test this by disconnecting the water line at the refrigerator and running it into a bucket. Weak flow means a kinked line or a clogged water filter.

The water filter on the WRX735SDBM00 sits inside the refrigerator compartment, top right corner. If it's been more than six months since you replaced it, the filter may be restricting flow. Replace it with a Whirlpool EveryDrop filter or a compatible replacement.

After changing the filter, run two gallons of water through the dispenser to clear air from the system.

Branch 4: Ice Maker Overflows or Leaks Water

Water leaking into the ice bin or pooling in the freezer is a sign of an overfilled mold. This happens when the water inlet valve stays open too long. The valve should only open for those 7 to 10 seconds.

If it sticks open, water keeps flowing and floods the mold.

Turn off the water supply to the refrigerator. Unplug the unit. Remove the ice maker cover and inspect the mold.

If there's standing water that hasn't frozen, the valve is stuck open. Replace it immediately. A stuck-open valve can cause significant water damage to the freezer floor and damage the ice maker module.

Another cause of overflow is a cracked ice mold. Inspect the plastic mold for hairline cracks. If you see cracks, the entire ice maker assembly needs replacement, not just the module.

Branch 5: Ice Maker Works But Won't Dispense

This is a separate issue from ice production. The ice maker is making cubes, but when you press the dispenser paddle, nothing comes out. The problem is in the dispenser mechanism.

Start by checking the dispenser chute. Sometimes a single cube gets stuck and blocks everything. Use a plastic utensil to gently clear the chute.

Never use metal. You can scratch the plastic and damage the mechanism.

If the chute is clear, the auger motor may have failed. The auger is the spiral piece inside the bin that pushes ice toward the chute. When it stops turning, the bin fills up but no ice reaches the dispenser.

Open the freezer door and manually rotate the auger. If it doesn't move freely, the motor is likely seized. Replacing the auger motor requires removing the ice bin and accessing the motor housing behind it.

This is a moderate difficulty repair that takes about 30 minutes.

Step-by-Step Fixes for the Most Common Problems

Fixing a Frozen Fill Tube

The frozen fill tube is the single most common reason the WRX735SDBM00 stops making ice. It is also the easiest fix. Here is exactly what to do.

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Unplug the refrigerator. Open the freezer door and remove the ice bin so you have clear access to the ice maker. Look at the back wall of the freezer.

You will see a small plastic tube entering the freezer. That is the fill tube. If there is frost or ice buildup around it, that is your problem.

Take a hair dryer and set it to low heat. Hold it about 6 inches from the tube. Move it back and forth across the tube and the surrounding area.

Do not concentrate heat on one spot for more than a few seconds. You are trying to thaw the ice slowly, not melt the plastic.

Within 5 to 10 minutes, you should see water start to drip from the tube. That means the blockage is clearing. Let the freezer run for an hour with the ice maker turned off.

Then turn the ice maker back on and see if it fills normally.

To prevent this from happening again, make sure the freezer door seal is tight. A loose seal lets warm air in, which causes condensation inside the tube. Test the seal by closing the door on a dollar bill.

If the bill slips out easily, the gasket needs replacing.

Resetting the Ice Maker After a Power Outage

Power outages cause the ice maker module to lose its programming. The module may simply need a hard reset to start working again. This is a zero-cost fix that works more often than people expect.

Unplug the refrigerator from the wall outlet. Wait exactly 30 seconds. Plug it back in.

That is the entire process. The module reboots and goes through its initialization sequence. You should hear the ice maker click within a few minutes as it starts its first cycle.

Don't skip the 30-second wait. If you plug it back in too quickly, the capacitors in the module don't fully discharge, and the reset doesn't take effect. After the reset, give the ice maker 24 hours to produce a full bin of ice.

If nothing happens after 24 hours, move to the other diagnostic steps.

Testing and Replacing the Door Switch

The door switch is a $10 part that causes disproportionate frustration. When it fails, the ice maker never gets the signal to run. Testing it takes about 30 seconds.

Open the freezer door. Locate the plunger switch. It is usually mounted on the top hinge area or the side frame of the freezer opening.

Press the plunger with your thumb. Listen for a click. A clean, audible click means the switch is mechanically fine.

No click or a mushy feel means the switch is broken.

For a more precise test, use a multimeter. Set it to continuity. Disconnect the wire harness from the switch.

Touch the probes to the two terminals. Press the plunger. The meter should beep when the plunger is depressed.

If it doesn't beep, replace the switch.

To replace it, pry the switch out of its mounting hole using a flathead screwdriver. Disconnect the wires and connect them to the new switch. Snap the new switch into place.

No screws needed.

Cleaning or Replacing the Water Filter

A clogged water filter restricts flow to the ice maker. The WRX735SDBM00 uses a filter that twists out from the top right corner of the refrigerator compartment. Turn the filter a quarter turn counterclockwise.

It will release and drop down slightly. Pull it straight out.

If you have a bypass plug, install that temporarily to confirm whether the filter is the problem. A bypass plug is a plastic cartridge that fits in the same slot but has no filtration media. It lets water flow freely.

If the ice maker starts working with the bypass plug installed, the filter is clogged and needs replacement.

Replace the filter with a Whirlpool EveryDrop filter. Run two gallons of water through the dispenser after installation. This flushes the air out of the system and primes the line to the ice maker.

Don't expect immediate ice production. It can take 24 hours for the first batch to form after a filter change. For official documentation and parts diagrams, check Whirlpool's support page for your model.

Mistakes That Cost You Time and Money

The biggest mistake owners make is replacing the ice maker module before checking anything else. It's an understandable move. The module is visible, easy to remove, and seems like the obvious culprit.

But it's rarely the problem. The door switch and fill tube fail far more often. Replacing the module without diagnosis wastes $50 and an hour of your time.

The second mistake is using a metal tool to pry ice out of the fill tube or chute. A screwdriver can puncture the plastic water line or scratch the ice mold. Once the mold is scratched, ice sticks to it, and the harvest cycle fails.

Always use plastic utensils or a hair dryer for ice removal.

Third, people forget to unplug the refrigerator before touching electrical parts. The door switch and water inlet valve carry 120 volts. Touching them while powered can shock you.

It takes one second to unplug the unit. Do it.

Fourth, don't ignore the water filter. Many owners replace it only when the filter indicator light turns on. But hard water can clog the filter before the indicator triggers.

If you have mineral-heavy water, replace the filter every four to five months.

When to Call a Pro vs. When to DIY

You can handle roughly 80 percent of ice maker problems on the WRX735SDBM00 yourself. The door switch, water filter, and fill tube are simple fixes. The ice maker module and water inlet valve are also DIY-friendly if you have basic tools and follow safety steps.

Call a professional if you encounter any of these situations.

• The water line connection behind the refrigerator is leaking. Fixing that requires shutting off the house water supply and replacing fittings. A mistake here can flood your kitchen.
• The refrigerator has been unplugged for a long trip, and the ice maker still won't work after a 24-hour reset. Internal sensors may need calibration.
• You test the water inlet valve with a multimeter and it reads continuity, but the ice maker still gets no water. The issue could be in the main control board. That repair needs a technician.
• You see frost buildup across the entire freezer wall. That points to a defrost system problem, not an ice maker issue.

A service call costs anywhere from $120 to $200 including the visit. Replacing a water inlet valve yourself costs about $45 in parts. If you're comfortable with a screwdriver and a multimeter, the DIY route almost always wins.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does it take for the ice maker to make the first batch of ice?

Under normal conditions, the WRX735SDBM00 takes about 90 minutes for the first batch. That assumes the freezer is at 0 degrees Fahrenheit and the water line is properly primed. After a power outage or filter change, allow a full 24 hours.

Where is the water filter located on the Whirlpool WRX735SDBM00?

The water filter is in the fresh food compartment, top right corner. Turn it counterclockwise a quarter turn, pull it straight down, and replace it with a Whirlpool EveryDrop filter or a compatible equivalent.

Why is my ice maker clicking but not producing ice?

Clicking means the module is trying to run, but the mold isn't getting water. Check the fill tube for a frozen blockage first. If the tube is clear, test the water inlet valve with a multimeter.

A clicking ice maker with a dry mold points to one of those two components.

Can I use the refrigerator without the ice maker working?

Yes. The refrigerator and freezer will still cool normally if the ice maker fails. You only lose the ice function.

You can also turn off the ice maker to stop any clicking or buzzing sounds while you order the replacement part.

Does unplugging the refrigerator reset the ice maker?

Yes, but only if you wait 30 seconds before plugging it back in. That allows the module's capacitors to discharge completely. A quick unplug and replug often doesn't trigger a real reset.

Final Takeaway: The Quick Fix Flowchart

Follow this simple sequence when the ice maker stops working.

1. Press the door switch plunger. No click? Replace the switch.
2. Clicking fine? Unplug the fridge for 30 seconds and reset.
3. Still no ice? Inspect the fill tube for frost. Thaw it with a hair dryer.
4. Tube clear? Check the water filter. Replace it if it's over six months old.
5. Filter fresh? Test the water inlet valve with a multimeter.

Work through these in order. Each step either fixes the problem or rules out a suspect. The WRX735SDBM00 is a reliable refrigerator overall.

Its ice maker just needs a little patience and logic. Start with the cheapest and easiest fix. Nine times out of ten, you'll be back to full ice production within the hour.